Long before Spanish ships appeared on the horizon, La Palma had its own name — Benahoare, “my homeland” — and its own people. Among them, one name still echoes around the island today: Tanausú, the last great chief who made his final stand inside the vast crater now known as the Caldera de Taburiente.

His story is one of defiance, betrayal and a refusal to be conquered — and it’s woven into the very landscape you’ll hike through on La Palma. Here’s who Tanausú was, and why he still matters.

Who were the Benahoaritas?

The original inhabitants of La Palma are usually called the Benahoaritas (also Awara or Auaritas) — part of the wider Guanche culture of the Canary Islands, descended from North African Berber peoples who reached the islands more than 2,000 years ago. On La Palma they lived in caves and stone shelters, herded goats, gathered shellfish, and left behind mysterious spiral rock engravings still visible at sites like La Zarza.

Before the conquest, the island was divided into twelve cantones (chiefdoms or bands), each led by its own chief. One of them was Aceró — a name thought to mean “strong” — and it covered the most impenetrable territory on the island: the towering crater at its heart.

Tanausú, the “stubborn one”

Tanausú was the chief (mencey) of Aceró. His name has been translated as “the stubborn one” — and he lived up to it. While several other La Palma chiefs submitted relatively quickly when the Castilian conquest began in 1492, Tanausú refused.

His advantage was geography. Aceró corresponded to the Caldera de Taburiente, an enormous ring of cliffs up to 2,000 metres high, accessible only through a handful of narrow, easily defended ravines. From inside this natural fortress, Tanausú and his people held out against the invaders.

The conquest of La Palma

The conquest was led by Alonso Fernández de Lugo, who landed in 1492 and founded the settlement that became Santa Cruz de La Palma. Most of the island fell within months. But the Caldera proved impossible to take by force — every attempt to push into the crater was thrown back by Tanausú’s defenders, who knew every rock and path.

Betrayal at Adamacansis

Unable to win militarily, Fernández de Lugo turned to deception. He sent a Christianised relative of the chief, Juan de Palma, to propose a peace meeting at the pass of Adamacansis. Trusting the offer, Tanausú came down from the Caldera with his men — and walked straight into an ambush. He was captured, and with him the last organised resistance on La Palma collapsed in 1493.

“Vacaguaré” — I want to die

Tanausú was put on a ship bound for Spain to be presented at the Castilian court. He never arrived. According to the chronicles, the captive chief refused all food and repeated a single word — “vacaguaré”, meaning “I want to die.” He starved himself rather than live in captivity, and died during the crossing.

It’s a haunting end — and the reason Tanausú is remembered not as a defeated king, but as a symbol of freedom and resistance.

Tanausú’s legacy on La Palma today

You’ll find Tanausú’s name all over the island: on streets, hotels, statues and local festivals. But his real monument is the landscape itself. When you stand at a viewpoint like La Cumbrecita and look into the Caldera de Taburiente, you’re looking at the fortress that the Spanish could not conquer — the last free corner of Benahoare.

Want to walk in his footsteps? Guided hikes into the Caldera de Taburiente bring this history to life — and it remains one of the most spectacular walks in the Canary Islands.

Plan your visit

The Caldera de Taburiente is the centrepiece of any La Palma trip. To explore it and the rest of the island, you’ll want your own transport and a comfortable base.

See our full guide to the best things to do in La Palma, and our hiking guide to the Caldera de Taburiente, for everything you need to plan the trip.